What is a Pump-Over in Wine?

By Ava Crouse

October 4, 2024

Winemakers may not have control over nature, but their style shines through based on the decisions they make during the winemaking process. One of these decisions is the techniques used when fermenting and for cap management. In the US, punch downs have become a popular technique when fermenting red wine to combine the juice with the skins. However, an alternative method is known as pump-overs, or “remontage” that traces its roots to France. 

 

At BENOM, we use this Old World winemaking technique on all our red wines, drawing on our six generations of French winemaking heritage to ensure that our wines exhibit the complexity, depth, and structure Arnaud and Guillaume Fabre, proprietors of BENOM, grew up around in France.

 

In this blog post, we'll delve into the pump-over wine process, explaining its significance and how it has become a cornerstone of our winemaking approach.

 

What is pumping over in wine?

 

Pump-overs are a winemaking and maceration technique used exclusively for red wine. This process is used during fermentation to extract color, tannins, and aroma compounds from the grape skins, which is essential for developing the wine's structure and complexity. 

 

After the grapes are crushed and processed, the solid components—such as the skins, seeds, and stems—tend to get pushed to the top of the tank due to the CO2 released during fermentation. This forms what is known as the "cap" and if left alone, the wine will lack color and flavor which is brought out by the skin (and seeds and stems if included). By pumping the juice from the bottom of the tank over the cap, the juice is able to contact all the skin, creating the complex and nuanced wine we all love.

 

For white wine, where the juice is typically fermented without the skins, pumping over is unnecessary. In red wines, however, the technique is a crucial step. Oxygenation through pump-overs also helps red wine develop a rounded and full mouthfeel instead of feeling tight; while oxygen will create problems for white wine.

A pump-over breaking up the cap
Breaking up the cap

Why is it necessary to pump over wine?

 

Improved Extraction

Red wine gets its color, tannins, and many of its flavors from the skin. By pumping juice over the cap, there is more contact between the juice and skins, which means fuller-bodied wine. This also creates a beautiful range of colors even among the same varietals (we’ve all seen the color wheels). It's especially important for reds like Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah, which thrive on those bold, complex flavors.

 

Aeration

Pump-overs introduce oxygen into fermentation, which helps keep the yeast active and the fermentation running smoothly. This bit of aeration not only lets the yeast do its job of turning sugars into alcohol but also boosts the wine’s aroma and texture. The amount of aeration allowed will ultimately depend on the winemaker’s style. 

 

Preventing Cap Compaction

Without pump-overs, the grape skins can form a dry, compact layer on the surface—the cap. If left alone, up to ⅓ of the cap may be out of contact with the liquid. Pumping over ensures that the cap remains moist, breaking it apart and allowing the juice to reach every part of the grape solids.

 

Temperature Control

Fermentation generates heat, and without circulation, hot spots can develop within the tank which will lead to higher tannins and lower color. Pump-overs help to redistribute heat evenly, bringing a consistent fermentation temperature. This is crucial for both developing flavor and keeping the yeast healthy.

A winery worker performing a pump-over
Performing a pump-over

Punch downs vs pump-over: what’s the difference?

 

You most likely have heard of the term “punch down” used in winemaking, which is another method of cap management. While pump-overs spray the juice over the cap, punch downs are when a tool is used to physically push the cap down into the liquid. Pump-overs are typically more gentle and are often considered better for more tannic red wines, such as Cabernet Sauvignon. Punch-downs have become known to be ideal for extracting more structure and tannin in lighter varietals, such as Pinot Noir. 

 

Several studies have been conducted on which method is best for which varietal with inconclusive results. At the end of the day, it largely depends on the winemaker's style and preferences. 

 

How do you pump over wine?

 

There are a few ways pump-overs can be done, which depends on the scale of the winery. In small, boutique wineries like BENOM, pump-overs are often manual, which means winemakers have better control over the frequency, quality, and intensity. This means that they can ensure that the cap is perfectly aerated. Larger wineries sometimes use sprinklers to automate this process.

 

When doing a pump-over, a hose is attached to the bottom of the tank and is used to “firehouse” or spray the juice over the cap at the top of the tank. 

 

How long to pump over wine?

 

Typically, pump-overs are performed two to three times a day during the fermentation or maceration process for 15 to 45 minutes each. How often and long pump-overs happen can depend on the stage of fermentation, the size of the tank, the varietals, and the winemaker’s style. 

A view of the cap from the top of a tank
A view of the cap from the top of a tank

The role of pump-overs at BENOM 

 

We exclusively use pump-overs at BENOM, which is a technique that has been passed down generation by generation in the Fabre family. This allows us to create a wine that draws on the Old World or French wine style marked by softness with an elegant structure. We find that pump-overs help us honor our heritage while bringing out the best in Paso Robles terroir.

 

Connecting our French heritage

 

At BENOM, pump-overs are more than just a method; it’s a reflection of our deep connection to French winemaking traditions. For six generations, the Fabre family has passed down knowledge and expertise, making it a central aspect of our winemaking process. 

 

We hope to share a glass of wine with you soon. Cheers!