Paso Robles’s Happy Mistake: Graciano Wine
By Ava Crouse
August 15, 2023
In the United States, the Graciano grape is not very well known—unless you’re a true Rioja aficionado. Traditionally, this varietal was found in Europe, until Paso Robles mistakenly put itself on the map. While it may not ring many bells for Americans, this powerful yet bright grape has forged its way into California history.
But sometimes the best discoveries are the unexpected ones. At BENOM, we see it as a happy twist of fate, and we're honored to feature Graciano in our Lapsus blend. Curious about this "happy mistake" and why it’s become a Paso Robles favorite? Let's dive into the world of Graciano wine!
What is Graciano Wine and What Are Graciano Grape Characteristics?
Firstly, let’s clarify what exactly is Graciano wine and what are its characteristics. Graciano is the third most popular Spanish grape variety in La Rioja after Tempranillo and Garnacha (Grenache). While the majority is grown in Northern Spain, you can occasionally find it in other Graciano wine regions, such as the Languedoc region of France, Portugal, and more recently, California.
The Graciano grape is a black-skinned grape that is very bitter and dark on the vine. As a wine, it tends to be known for its tannins, acidity, dark color, and intense yet bright notes. In Paso Robles, Graciano wine is typically used in small quantities for blends or to add color or freshness.
The Happy Mistake
What’s even more fascinating than the grape itself is how Graciano found its way to Paso Robles about a decade ago. A Spanish clone of Mourvedre, or Monastrell, was being sold at a California nursery and many winemakers began to plant it in their vineyards. One of the first winemakers to introduce the clone to Paso Robles was Justin Smith of Saxum Vineyards.
Believing it to be Mourvèdre, many wineries began to use it in blends, particularly Rhône blends such as GSMs (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre). A few years passed until Smith began questioning whether the vine was truly Mourvèdre. Several telltale signs prompted his curiosity: the color of the leaf tips, the absence of the earthy notes typically associated with Mourvèdre, and the deep, inky hue. It was sent to UC Davis in 2017 for genetic testing and, to everyone’s surprise, came back as Graciano Clone #8.
What caused the mistake was a simple translation error. In Spanish, Mourvèdre is referred to as “Monastrell.” However, in French, Graciano is referred to as “Morrastel.” The two varietals were mixed up due to the phonetic similarity and labeled incorrectly at the nursery. This meant that there was about a three-year period where Californian winemakers were incorrectly blending and labeling wines.
At the time of the mistake, around 200 acres of Paso Robles vineyards were planted with Graciano. While some winemakers decided to remove their Graciano vines and plant Mourvèdre instead, many chose to call it a “happy mistake” and continue growing and harvesting Graciano grapes. Most Paso Robles winemakers embraced the mistake with a positive mindset and although it had caused previous mislabeling on wine bottles, shook it off and corrected the labels with Graciano moving forward. After all, the varietal had been deceiving and impressing both winemakers and wine lovers for several years. Why stop something so good?
Lapsus: BENOM’s Graciano Blend
BENOM, inspired by the story of Paso Robles Graciano and its happy mistake, decided to create a wine to portray this piece of Paso Robles's history. With a blend that includes both Graciano and Mourvèdre, Lapsus showcases the intensity and brightness of Graciano in Paso Robles contrasted with the earthiness and savory qualities of Mourvèdre. Lapsus is more than just a wine; it's a narrative and history captured in a bottle. This wine is the perfect conversation starter for those looking to connect over a fascinating story and enjoy a great wine.
“Lapsus” in Latin translates to “an involuntary error.” The name was chosen to symbolize Paso Robles’s "happy mistake," where Graciano, originally unplanned for the region, found a natural home and began to thrive. The full blend includes Graciano, Mourvèdre, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. To taste Lapsus and Paso Robles Graciano, schedule a tasting or order the wine online.
Suggested Graciano Wine and Food Pairings
Whether you’re seeking an appetizer, main dish, or savory dessert, there are several recipes that make an ideal food pairing for Graciano. Here are four wine-pairing recipes that promise to delight you the next time you open a bottle of Graciano wine.
Appetizer: Smoked Cod or Smoked Salmon Croquettes
Croquettes are deep-fried appetizer bites stuffed with a delicate filling, in this case, smoked cod or salmon. What ties this pairing together is the smokiness of the fish harmonizing with the acidity and spice undertones of Graciano, while the crisp crust of the croquette adds a satisfying textural contrast. To view this recipe and try it at home, please click here.
Main: Boar Crépinette
Crépinettes are flattened sausage patties wrapped in caul fat and seared to perfection. Boar crépinettes, with their rich and savory flavors, make a perfect pairing for Graciano wine. The robust, earthy character of the boar complements the wine’s depth and complexity, while the acidity and power of Graciano cut through the richness. To view the recipe for Boar Crépinette with Sauce Gribiche & Green Beans Amandine, please click here.
Main: Oak Roasted & Stuffed Pork Loin
Another option for a main dish is oak-roasted and prune-stuffed pork loin. The brightness of Graciano will soften the richness of the dish while incorporating subtle spice and enriching the deep fruit flavors. This recipe pairs the pork loin with caramelized endives and Banyuls glaze. To view the recipe, please click here.
Dessert: Savory Cherry Clafoutis
For a more unconventional Graciano food pairing, consider pairing it with a savory dessert. Clafoutis is a baked, Dutch pancake-like tart that typically includes cherries. This recipe also includes mascarpone cream and Turkish coffee dust. The dessert’s subtle sweetness and savory notes enhance the dark fruit notes in the Graciano, while the wine’s acidity keeps the pairing balanced and refreshing. This recipe is coming soon.